Valve box installation instructions

Final adjustment to grade is done by means of the slip joint and set-screw. The upper section can be raised to grade, and held in place by turning in the set-screw. We recommend that the set-screw be turned only finger tight, or just enough to hold the upper section in place.

By leaving it barely tight, you can still manually move the upper section up or down for fine adjustment. This is important for final grade adjustment, and will greatly assist work crews at a later time when repaving takes place.

If the set screw is just barely holding, the valve box can be simply lifted to the new grade, without having to use elevating rings or other methods. The final step of valve box installation is the placement of concrete or bitumen around the top service ring. All valve boxes are designed to have the traffic loads transmitted from the lid to the service ring, and then to the surrounding structure dirt or pavement.

It is never intended that the tube of the valve box carry traffic loads, or that the load be transmitted to the pipe. It is recommended that a minimum of 4" thick of concrete be poured around the valve box, extending a minimum of 10" in all directions outward from the lid diameter. In non-traffic areas it is acceptable to pack dirt under the service ring for support, while maintaining the lid surface flush with the surrounding surface.

A dirt-type of installation will not carry riding lawnmowers or other heavy traffic if the ground is wet. AMPro valve boxes are designed to meet this requirement when installed according to this bulletin! Remove the Locking Lid by first turning the pentagon nut counter-clockwise several turns.

Then pry on both sides at the same time to lift the lid straight up. It is designed to require a straight lift in order to enhance the locking feature. When placing the lid back in the box, push straight down. When the lid is flush with the surrounding ring, turn the pentagon nut clockwise until it stops. Force should not be necessary, and could damage the lid. You now have a secure and sealed valve box, properly installed! Stand on the flanges of the base, take hold of the box just below the thread collar, and while moving the box back and forth with your hands, lift upward.

If the box came to you with the bottom in an unassembled state, you may be able to determine the length to cut before assembling the box. Once the cutting is complete, place the 6" bottom back into the base. Pound lightly on the top of the 6" pipe to seat the 6" pipe back into the base. The VB-6 valve box is designed to fit over pipes up to 8". Once you know the size of pipe you will be mounting over, it is necessary to remove the proper knockout panels on both ends of the base enclosure.

For 2", 4" or 6" pipes, remove the panel by tapping firmly with a hammer on the back side of the knockout, near the top. The selected section will pop out relatively clean. Any rough edges can be smoothed with a knife or file.

If the valve box will be mounted on an 8" pipe, remove the entire end panel. It simply clips in place, so it can be removed with a hammer or screwdriver.

Place the VB-6 valve box over the valve, centered as close as possible. Rough adjustment to grade is done by means of the slip joint and set-screw. The upper section should be threaded about halfway down the sliding collar, when length permits. We recommend that the set-screw be turned firmly. Final adjustment can be made by rotating the top section, and letting it move up or down on the threads. Where it is necessary to extend the valve box to its heigth limits, it is acceptable to have the sliding thread collar only engaging about 1" of the 6" pipe.

This information is by no means comprehensive. American Valve bears no responsibility for the improper installation or misuse of its plumbing valves. Please see our warranty and terms for more information. Cut tube straight and remove any burrs. Slip a standard crimp ring over the tube and then slip the tube over the valve. Pliers may be helpful.

Position a calibrated crimp tool over the ring and compress it tightly. Turn on water and check for leaks. Hose threads straight do not require any sealant. Do not disassemble the valve. Clean all the surfaces to be soldered with a fine sand cloth or steel wire brush to remove all traces of dirt and oil.

Use a thin film of flux to cover the surfaces. Use flux sparingly, but be sure to cover the entire surface. Always use lead-free solder for plumbing parts. Open the valve fully and carefully to apply only as much heat as is needed to melt the solder. If you are using MAPP gas then you should exercise additional caution as it will be hotter than propane.

It is a good idea to make sure the flame only contacts the ends of the valve and not the center section, where the soft Teflon seals could be damaged.

Apply heat to the tubing first and transfer as much heat as possible to the valve through the tubing to avoid overheating the valve.

When the temperature of the parts is hot enough to melt the solder, remove the flame. Solder is then applied to the joint and will automatically fill the joint through capillary action.

Using too much solder will make a weak joint. Open the valve.